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Strong as Nails
by Johanna Staley
Get the Best Care

They brave soapy water, dry air, and the occasional sticky situation. Wherever the day takes us, our fingernails are on the front lines. Utilitarian? Sure, but when it comes to nails, strength and beauty go hand in hand. And with a little care, healthy, gorgeous fingertips are well within reach.

Nail Primer
Although supported by a healthful lifestyle, nails are not actually living material. Primarily composed of the protein keratin, fingernails grow from the half-moon-shaped white “lunula” at the nail base. The cuticle, a thin, flexible layer of skin, protects this area from dirt and bacterial infection. Healthy nails are transparent; you should see the rosy nail bed underneath.

Beauty from Within
“The condition of your nails is an excellent indicator of inner health,” explains Kim Erickson, author of Drop-Dead Gorgeous. Dry, brittle nails? Consider essential fatty acids (EFAs), vitamin A, B complex, and sulfur.

Along with plenty of pure water, EFAs (from coldwater fish or flaxseed oil) boost nails’ natural moisture. Biotin, a B vitamin, promotes healthy cell growth and protein metabolism. The popular supplement methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) contains sulfur—an important mineral for strong nails and more.

Shine On
What goes on our nails is important, too. Banned in Europe and considered a reproductive toxin, the plasticizer dibutyl phthalate is legal for use in U.S. cosmetics, including nail color. Formaldehyde and toluene, linked to cancer and birth defects, also appear in conventional polishes. “Since our nails are extremely porous,” explains Erickson, “they can absorb the chemicals used in nail polishes, removers, and cuticle creams.” While a few manufacturers have pledged to reformulate their products, concerns about toxins—and distaste for the chemical smell of conventional polishes and removers—have many looking for better choices.

“Why use questionable products when equally as effective (or even better) alternatives exist?” asks Melissa Hertzler, founder of Honeybee Gardens. “In my opinion, the ingredients in solvent-based polishes are just scary,” she says. “By contrast, water-based polish uses an emulsion resin in the form of billions of very small particles suspended in water. As the water evaporates, the particles touch each other and form a hard film, which is no longer soluble in water,” explains Hertzler. Removed with odorless alcohol, these enamels look and feel like typical nail color.

The Natural Choice
Check your favorite natural products store for hand and nail moisturizers with wholesome ingredients. “Grape seed, apricot kernel, walnut, and avocado oils are all skin-nourishing plant oils used in high-end skin care products because they are such efficient moisturizers,” says Autumn Blum, CEO at Organix-South.

Why is moisture key? “Nails become brittle when they don’t have enough hydration and when the skin around them is unhealthy,” explains Celeste Lutrario, head of research and development at Burt’s Bees.

Antibacterial neem oil helps soothe and repair cuticles. Vitamin E, horsetail extract, lemon oil, and chamomile all support healthy nails topically.

Creams or balms containing cocoa or shea butters are other natural choices. Melinda Garland at the W.S. Badger Company explains, “Shea butter is thought to be a ‘youth enhancer’ and has been treasured for centuries as a superior skin soother, moisturizer, and beautifier.”

“An ounce of prevention is truly worth the effort,” says Jill Price Marshall at Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. Daily maintenance of your nails and a nourishing hand cream will keep both hands and nails supple and moisturized, she adds.

Treat Yourself
A home manicure is a great way to pamper yourself and maintain noticeably lovely hands and nails. First, soak fingers in warm water with essential oils such as rosemary, calendula, or myrrh to clean nails.

Don’t cut cuticles, which can lead to inflammation and infection. Instead, apply a cuticle cream or oil. After a few minutes, gently push back the cuticles using a soft, damp cloth or orange stick. Follow with a rich moisturizer, massaging into the hands until fully absorbed. File your nails in one direction only. Buff to a shine or coat with your favorite water-based color.

Protect your manicure by wearing gloves to do dishes and other chores. And replenish moisture to hands and nails morning and night. TFL

 

Selected Sources
Drop-Dead Gorgeous by Kim Erickson ($16.95, Contemporary, 2002)
The Living Beauty Detox Program by Ann Louise Gittleman, PhD, CNS ($24, HarperSanFrancisco, 2000)
–“Looking Good Could Be Hazardous: Makeup, Perfume, and Moisturizer May Contain Harmful Chemicals” by Beth Greer, San Francisco Chronicle, 9/27/06
– Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org
–“Nail Polish Makers Yield on Disputed Chemical” by Natasha Singer, New York Times, 9/7/06
– Personal Communication: Autumn Blum, CEO, Organix-South, Inc; Melinda Garland, W.S. Badger Company; Melissa Hertzler, founder, Honeybee Gardens; Celeste Lutrario, head of research and development, Burt’s Bees; Jill Price Marshall, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care, 11/06

 

 
 
 

Fungus?
Fungal infections can cause thickened, discolored, and damaged nails. Ann Louise Gittleman, PhD, CNS, says that fungus on either fingernails or toenails may indicate systemic yeast, or Candida albicans. She encourages detoxification to rid the body of yeast overgrowth.

For the outer symptoms of infection, try the following:
– Wild oregano oil, known for its powerful antifungal properties
– Pau d’arco tea with goldenseal; soak in mixture for 15 minutes twice daily
– Tea tree oil; apply topically several times a day
– Neem oil to discourage nail fungus; use externally.